upcycled trinket trays

materials

small ceramic dishes – check your local consignment

acrylic paints – i like a combination of matte and metallic

paint brush

assembly

step 1 – remove all sticker residue completely from dishes with appropriate cleaner such as goo gone. clean. dry well.

step 2 – apply coats of paint until desired opaqueness is achieved. dry between layers.

step 3 – use a paint brush to flick contrasting paint lightly over bowl surface

option to seal with Mod Podge dishwasher safe product. do not use with food – decor and storage only.

hot tool cover

materials

2 colors – lily n cream cotton yarn – about 1/3 skein each

size I crochet hook (5.5 mm)

yarn needle

assembly

step 1- start: make 6 sc in magic ring

step 2 – increase ring until desired circumference is achieved.

  • row 1a – 2 sc in each st around (12 sc) – if using cover for 1″ tools and smaller, proceed to step 3/row 2. if using cover for 1″-2″ tools, proceed to row 1b
  • row 1b – *2 sc in next st, 1 sc, repeat from around (18 sc)

step 3 – extend cover to desired length

  • row 2 and on – sc around

step 4 – when desired length is achieved, add optional cord loop: ch 1, turn, sc in next 3 st, ch1, turn, sc across, continue until you have made about 8 rows. sew to secure top of loop to base with a yarn needle.

wire-wrapped gem earrings

materials

thin gold wire

chip beads or small stones

thin nosed pliers

wire cutters

E6000 glue

post earrings

assembly

step 1 – use wire to wrap 5 to 6 coils around the tip of the thin nosed pliers. cut off.

step 2 – insert bead through center of coil and glue the back of the coil to the face of a post earring

option to etch post earring with sand paper prior to gluing for improved adhesion

step 3 – allow to dry per glue instructions.

mod heart earrings

materials

silver heart beads

square turquoise beads

post earrings

E6000 glue

assembly

optional: briefly scratch the face of the post earrings with sand paper to improve adhesion

step 1 – apply a small dot of glue onto the face of a post earring and press it into the center of a square turquoise bead

step 2 – apply a small dot of glue onto the back of a heart bead. press it to the face of the turquoise bead

step 3 – allow to dry per glue instructions

oversized potholders

materials

1/2 skein each of two colors Lily Sugar’n Cream cotton yarn

5.50 mm crochet hook – Size I

yarn needle

key

sc – single crochet

sl st – slip stitch

tip

minimize counting. every “2 sc” will be made in the top of the first st a “2 sc” from the row prior.

pay special attention to row 10 – where an additional 2 sc motif will be added.

pattern

crochet using both yarns at once

start – make 6 in magic ring (6)

row 1 – make 2 sc in each st around (12)

row 2 – *make 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in second st, repeat from * around (18)

row 3 – *make 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 2 st, repeat from * around (24)

row 4 – *make 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 3 st, repeat from * around (30)

row 5 – *make 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 4 st, repeat from * around (36)

row 6 – *make 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 5 st, repeat from * around (42)

row 7 – *make 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 6 st, repeat from * around (48)

row 8 – *make 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 7 st, repeat from * around (54)

row 9 – *make 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 8 st, repeat from * around (60)

row 10 – *make 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 4 st, repeat from * around (72)

row 11 – *make 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 5 st, repeat from * around (84)

row 12 – *make 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 6 st, repeat from * around (96)

finishing – sl st. make a ch of 15, cut yarn and pull the end all the way through on the last ch to finish, connect chain to the same stitch starting st with another sl st. weave in ends

use

as is or fold in half to reinforce during removal from oven or stovetop

machine washable

après-adventure Hat

notes

There are so many beautiful knitting patterns for hats constructed with Malabrigo Rasta – of course there are, it knits up so quickly and each skein offers such beautiful and unique colors. But this is a crochet blog! So I wanted to bring the crochet aesthetic to Rasta, and thought that a simple moss stitch was the best way to do it (not to mention, it goes nice and fast when you get to crochet in the chain spaces!). While I try my absolute best to make these patterns as simple to follow and as reproducible as possible, they are untested (feedback is welcome!), and one area I’ve noticed can sometimes lead to variation due to the nature of the moss stitch is the tightness of that chain space. My advice is to remember to go easy on the tension, your chain stitches should be about the same size as the single crochet – or you will end up with a very tight hat that will not increase in size very gracefully. This hat is sized for adults, but you could easily make it smaller by leaving out the last increase row and taking a few rows off of the length. I just love to watch the colors unfold before my eyes as I make this hat, and I wish you the same joy.

materials

Malabrigo rasta – approx 1.5 skeins, but will vary with how loosely you crochet

size J (6 mm) crochet hook

fuzzy pom

yarn needle (optional)

key

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

ch sp – chain space

xdc – cross double crochet

pattern

Row 1 – SC 6 in magic ring

Row 2 – in each stitch around, make the following: SC 1, CH 1, SC 1, CH 1. Each stitch from the magic ring should have two SC, and each SC should have a CH spaced in between. From here on out, you will work in the CH SP only, so for simplicity, row stitch counts will be provided in CH SP (12 CH SP).

Row 3 – Into the 1st CH SP of Row 2: SC 1, CH 1, SC 1, CH 1. Into the 2nd CH SP of Row 2, SC 1, CH 1. Repeat this sequence 5 times around (18 CH SP)

Note: Make sure you begin row 3 in the actual first CH SP, not the stitch just before or you will end up off by 1.

Row 4 — Into the 1st CH SP of Row 3: SC 1, CH 1. Into the 2nd CH SP of Row 3, SC 1, CH 1, SC 1, CH 1, Into the 3rd CH SP of Row 3: SC 1, CH 1. Repeat this sequence 5 times around (24 CH SP)

Row 5-6 — SC 1, CH 1 in each CH SP around (24 CH SP)

Row 7 — Into the first three CH SP of Row 6: SC 1, CH 1.  Into the 4th CH SP: SC 1, CH 1, SC 1, CH 1. Repeat this sequence 5 times around (30 CH SP)

Row 8-9 — SC 1, CH 1 in each CH SP around (30 CH SP)

Row 10 — In the 1st CH SP of row 9: SC 1, CH 1, SC 1, CH 1. Into the each of the next four CH SP: SC 1, CH 1. Repeat this sequence 5 times around (36 CH SP)

Row 11-17 — SC 1, CH 1 in each CH SP around (36 CH SP)

Row 18 — Decrease 1 CH SP (just like a normal decrease, but crochet 2 CH SP together), CH 1, Into the next 10 CH SP: SC 1, CH 1, SK 1 CH. Repeat this sequence 2 times around (33 CH SP)

Row 19 — Decrease 1 CH SP, CH 1, Into the next 9 CH SP: SC 1, CH 1.  Repeat this sequence 2 times around (30 CH SP)

Row 20-21 — Ch 3 (counts as first XDC), XDC in same stitch.  Make 2 XDC into each CH space around. 

Finish Off. Add fuzzy pom. Weave in ends.

autumn cowl

materials

Size H crochet hook

Two colors worsted weight yarn:

  • Primary yarn: 90 grams/171 yds/156 m Worsted Weight
  • Accent yarn: 15 grams/29 yds/27 m Worsted Weight

Note: featured yarns in this project include Big Twist Premium in Teal and Raven, and Big Twist Sincerely in Cupcake Confetti and Red.

I refer to the yarn for the edging and in between popcorn rows as the ACCENT yarn. The yarn that is used for the popcorn stitches of the main body is the PRIMARY yarn.

key

ch – chain

sp – space

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

pattern

While working the moss stitch in the round, it can be a bit tricky to keep your stitch counts consistent. It was most helpful for me to count the only the sc around (should be half the number of your starting chain) to keep on track. You will alternate moss stitch rows beginning your single crochet in the ch space immediately next to your hook, and the second ch sp from your hook.

START:

Begin with accent color and ch 92, sl st to join round.

ROW 1:

ch 2 (counts as first sc/ch), sc in 2nd ch from hook (make sure you are not counting the ch you just sl st into), ch 1, sk next st, *sc 1, ch 1, sk next st, repeat from * around, sl st to join.

you should have 46 of the [sc, ch1] motif

ROW 2:

ch 1 to start, sc in first ch space, ch 1, *sc in next ch sp, ch 1, repeat from * around, ending on a ch, then slip st into the first sc of row to join

ROW 3:

switch to primary color, pull new yarn through loop (counts as 1 ch), ch 1, sc into 2nd ch sp from hook, *ch 1, sc into next ch sp, repeat from * around, ending on a sc, then sl st into the starting ch 2 to join.

no need to cut yarn and weave in ends, just carry along back of work

ROWS 4, 5:

repeat instructions for rows 2 and 3 in accent color only

ROW 6:

switch to primary color, pull through loop (counts as 1 ch), ch 2 (counts as first dc), make 4 dc in same sp, remove hook and insert through top of first st, then behind the work through the top of the last dc and pull loop through (this is also known as a popcorn stitch*), ch 1, *make a popcorn st with 5 dc in next ch sp, ch 1, repeat from * around, then sl st to join in top of starting ch (should have 46 bobbles)

ROW 7:

switch to accent color, pull through loop, ch 1, *sc in next ch sp, ch 1, repeat from * around, sl st into starting ch to join

ROW 8-15:

repeat rows 6 & 7 four times

ROW 16:

continue in accent color: ch 1, *sc in first ch sp, ch 1, repeat from * around, ending on a ch, sl st into first sc to join

ROW 17:

switch to primary color, ch 2, sc in second ch sp from hook, *ch 1, sc in ch sp, repeat from * around, sl st into starting ch 2 to join

ROWS 18-19:

repeat directions for row 16 and 17 in accent color only, repeat row 16. Finish off, weave in ends.

tee crochet inlay

materials

tee

1 skein Patons Grace yarn (orchid pictured)

  • additional yarn may be needed for extra long tees

4 mm crochet hook

Embroidery needle

ruler

key

ch- chain

sc- single crochet

dc- double crochet

sk 1 sp – skip one space

pattern

You can make this inlay as narrow or wide as you like, the key is to have an odd number of stitches in your motif so that the double crochets will line each side. By repeating my motif of 25 stitches, my inlay was 5 inches wide.

BACK INLAY

Start – ch 26

Row 1 – sc in 2nd ch from hook, continue sc across (25)

Row 2 – ch 2, *dc, ch, sk 1 sp, dc, and repeat from * across

Row 3 – ch 1, sc across

Rows 4 – ? – Repeat rows 2 & 3 as needed to create a swatch long enough to stretch the entire back of the shirt

BOTTOM TRIM

This part is optional, but I found I liked how it helped tie the whole look together.

Start – ch 6

Row 1 – sc in 2nd ch from hook, continue sc across (5)

Row 2 – ch 2, *dc, ch, sk 1 sp, dc, and repeat from * across

Row 3 – ch 1, sc across

Rows 4 – ? – Repeat rows 2 & 3 as needed to create a swatch long enough to stretch around the entire bottom perimeter of the shirt – don’t finish off right away, leave a little extra yarn to give yourself room to extend if you need to.

Assembly

Find the middle line bisecting the back of your shirt.

You want the inlay to fall exactly at the middle, so using a ruler, draw a line in pencil on either side that is the same distance from the middle as half the width of the inlay.

For example, my inlay was 5 so I drew a line all along the shirt that was 2.5″ to the left and 2.5″ to the right.

Cut out this section of the shirt, leaving the seam at the collar intact

Use the yarn and an embroidery needle to whip stitch the inlay into the part of the shirt you removed.

When finished, take the trim and whipstitch it around the entire perimeter of the bottom of the shirt.



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